How a British Chef Turned Kolkata’s Jhal Muri into London’s Street Food Sensation
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| Chef Angus Denoon making Jhal Muri in London streets. |
Food has an extraordinary power to unite people, break cultural barriers, and tell stories. Few embody this better than British chef Angus Denoon, whose love affair with Indian street food has transformed London’s food scene. Through his vibrant food van, the "Everybody Love Love Jhal Muri Express," Denoon has brought Kolkata’s beloved jhal muri snack to the streets of London, creating a unique culinary bridge between East and West.
A Culinary Journey Begins in Kolkata
Angus Denoon’s journey to becoming a street food icon in London started over 5,000 miles away, in the bustling streets of Kolkata. In 2005, while exploring the city’s chaotic and flavorful street food scene, Denoon had his first taste of jhal muri. This humble yet irresistibly flavorful snack—a mix of puffed rice, spices, mustard oil, chopped veggies, and sometimes peanuts—completely captivated him. It wasn’t just the flavors that hooked him, but the experience itself: the vibrant interaction between vendor and customer, the quick assembly of ingredients, and the punch of taste with every bite.
That moment of discovery turned into an obsession. On his return to London, Denoon quit his job as a chef and embarked on an unlikely mission—to bring the magic of jhal muri to the streets of London. He started with little more than a dream and a cart, selling jhal muri in diverse neighborhoods like Tooting, Whitechapel, and Southall, where the vibrant Asian communities were already familiar with bold flavors. However, it wasn’t just Indian expats who took to it—Londoners from all walks of life began embracing this exotic, spicy snack.
What Makes Jhal Muri Special?
Jhal muri, literally meaning "spicy puffed rice" in Bengali, is more than just a snack; it’s a sensory experience. Each bite is a symphony of textures—crunchy puffed rice, crisp vegetables, and soft boiled potatoes—all elevated by the tang of mustard oil and spices like cumin, black salt, and chili powder. Denoon calls it "fresh and alive, full of flavors and textures," and believes that its beauty lies in its simplicity.
For Denoon, each serving of jhal muri is a form of personal expression. "It’s a small piece of personal theater that you eat," he says. Each bowl is made with care, honoring the tradition of Indian street food while adapting it to the cosmopolitan palates of his London customers.
Jhal Muri’s Historical Roots
Denoon isn’t the only one to fall in love with jhal muri. The dish’s history is just as fascinating. According to food historian Pritha Sen, jhal muri gained prominence during World War II in Kolkata, then Calcutta, which was a strategic hub for British military operations. Laborers from Bihar and Uttar Pradesh, drawn to the city by the war effort, recognized the business potential of selling jhal muri to British soldiers, American GIs, and Bengali babus alike. Cheap, portable, and satisfying, it quickly became a street food staple, beloved for its affordability and flavor-packed punch.
From London’s Streets to Viral Fame
Angus Denoon’s rise from a small-time street food vendor to a viral sensation was swift. In 2019, a video of him selling jhal muri outside London’s Oval cricket ground during the World Cup went viral, capturing the attention of foodies worldwide. Bollywood superstar Amitabh Bachchan even gave him a shoutout, further solidifying Denoon’s cult status.
Denoon’s van quickly became a destination, not just for lovers of Indian cuisine but for those seeking something new and exciting. His jhal muri, prepared with authenticity and flair, became a must-try for food adventurers across the city.
Beyond Jhal Muri: A Celebration of Indian Street Food
While jhal muri is the star of Denoon’s food van, it’s not the only offering. Over time, he has expanded his menu to include other Indian street food classics like ghugni chaat, puchkas (India’s beloved take on pani puri), dhokla, and refreshing lassi. Denoon’s dedication to staying true to the flavors and traditions of Indian street cuisine is what makes his offerings stand out. He doesn’t just replicate recipes—he honors their origins while presenting them in a way that resonates with London’s diverse population.
More Than a Food Van: A Cultural Exchange on Wheels
Denoon acknowledges that his status as a British chef selling a beloved Indian snack makes him a bit of a novelty, but his respect for jhal muri’s roots shines through. "I know because of where I am from, I am a novelty. But ultimately, I would like to be known as someone who makes jhal muri nicely, with respect for where it comes from, and of how much it means to many people," he says.
His venture is about more than just food. It’s a cultural exchange on wheels, offering Londoners a taste of Kolkata while honoring the street vendors who have been making jhal muri for decades. In doing so, Denoon has built a loyal fanbase not just for his food, but for the story behind it.
Food That Transcends Borders
Angus Denoon’s "Everybody Love Love Jhal Muri Express" is a testament to the power of food to transcend borders and bring people together. Through his passion for Indian street food, Denoon has created a thriving business that blends the flavors of Kolkata with the multiculturalism of London. Whether it’s the crunchy, spicy jhal muri or the cool, refreshing chai, his food van continues to be a vibrant spot where cultures meet, flavors meld, and stories are shared.
In a world that’s increasingly global yet divided, Denoon’s food reminds us that something as simple as a bowl of puffed rice can connect us across continents, one delicious bite at a time.
Source: The Better India